Monday 16 March
A new post as the last one was getting quite long!...
Another trip into the old part to see the figures in sunshine. Nice to see that they eventually had four wheels on the wagon!...
We saw some old favourites and found new ones. Every time we go out we see new things - but one thing we only ever saw once (and that was when it was shut!) was the Tourist Information office. We've looked for it (or them - there are at least two) and never seen them again! And we have given up trying to use a map as it only makes things worse...
This is one of the old markets which is now full of twee little stalls selling expensive twee stuff - but worth a look for the beautiful art deco building...
We decided to stay around to watch the 2pm mascleta - banger/firework display. People were already camping out to claim their spots a couple of hours before. We could see the fireworks all ready to go in a closed off compound in front of the Town Hall next to the lion. 'Elf n safety' in Spain!! It was already difficult to try and get through the throngs and there was a notice up to say which neighbourhood was providing the fireworks for that day...
In the midst of all this there was a small demonstration - probably against the cost of it all! And it was nice to see a cordoned off area for those in wheelchairs - although this area was slap bang in front of the fireworks so it would not be for the faint hearted!
And yes - we saw Mr Bean again!...
We eventually found our way to the central market - another lovely building...
We decided to eat in the sunshine at a lovely looking stall at the back for the market. Squid for Mike and chorizos for me.
All really tasty - but not what I was saying later when I had bad stomach ache - not sure if that was down to a touch of food poisoning or just to greed!!
So off we went to wait for the mascleta. We stood at the far end of the square well away from the fireworks - but with so many people it would have been hard to get nearer even if we had wanted to!...
And at two o'clock on the dot it began!...
What NOISE!!...
Gradually the square and the streets started filling with smoke until we couldn't see the lion in the distance for a while. And then, after a few minutes it all stopped and that was it. Cue for a huge cheer from the crowds...
And then it was a mad but good natured rush while everyone tried to get out of the square and the surrounding streets to get home for their lunch!
We had positioned ourselves so that we could get out of the square and get back to the metro station quite easily.
But so had thousands of others...
We eventually found our way back to the metro (once again it wasn't where we though it was!)
And back to the flat to find that the lift had been mended. Yay!
Tuesday 17 March
Another day of sunshine so we got on the metro to go down to have a look at the port and the beach. After a couple of stops there was a great commotion as loads of people all crowded into the carriage. It was a full marching band and several young men and girls all in full Valencian costume. After some loud chat the band burst into tune and they sang and danced and clapped all the way to their stop - which happened to be ours too.
Amazing! People were just going about their business and getting on and off the tram as it stopped at the stations, squeezing past drums and the heavy skirts of the falleras - just as though it was a normal thing to do!
I said to some of them that it was lovely to see but that it would never happen in England as people would just tutt and complain. Then a Spanish woman told me that she was from Madrid and that it wouldn't happen there either - that it only happened in Valencia!
So - only in Valencia!!
When they got off the tram they all waited on the platform and started singing again - there were more of them on the next train!...
It was funny watching them trying to gather their skirts together to get through the exit barriers!...
But it was even funnier watching them go up the escalator!...
Eventually they all got outside and one lot marched off round one side of the square and the others went off the other way - no doubt to meet up somewhere else later!
A walk down to the port and the beach...
And then in the evening a chance at last to meet Agustin and Justina - who had been working at school but who now had the rest of the week off for Fallas celebrations (more holidays for Spain...) Lovely to see them both!...
We followed them round the Fallas like happy sheep - it was really nice to be led around by someone who knew where they were going and we saw loads of things that we wouldn't have known about otherwise - and we would never have found this falla which was the overall winner. There were so many people trying to look at it that you just had to slowly shuffle along and try to keep together whilst taking photos!...
We eventually shuffled out way into the Plaza de la Virgen where the huge wooden Virgin was situated and were told why this wooden framed figure is so central to everything. For some this is the most important and most religious part of the Fallas as it is when all the neighbourhoods parade their falleras and falleros, all of them carrying flowers which are offered to the Virgin. As there are so many districts this goes on until the early hours of the morning over two evenings! The flowers are then put into the wooden framework to make a beautiful pattern on her robe and dress...
After supper we wandered back into the main square - just in time to see a wonderful display of lights, smoke and music from the lion. And it was the first time that Agustin and Justina had seen it too so that was nice.
What a great evening! Big thank you to Agustin and Justina as we would not have been able to do that on our own (or even find it, let's be honest!!)
Wednesday 18 March
Grey skies and drizzle today. We took the train out to Silla in the suburbs of Valencia to meet Agustin and Justina again at their home and had a walk round to look at some of the Fallas in their small town...
Still very impressive and, like everywhere else, a lot of rivalry between the different neighbourhoods.
These are some of Justina's paintings - they are absolutely gorgeous and totally put my little daubings to shame. And Agustin had painted one too...
Agustin cooked for us - a special Valencian dish called Fideua - seafood and tiny pasta...
And lovely jamon of course cut straight from the bone...
And then we saw Mario - dressed in his fallero suit ready to take part in the afternoon procession.
How handsome!...
We went to have a look at Agustins' hobby - a small community television studio for local telly and radio which he helps to run...
They broadcast local news and events from 8pm till midnight every evening.
And then we went off to watch Mario in the procession and meet up with Sergio who had just finished work...
The three musketeers looking for an open coffee shop...
We also found out that the building on the left in the middle picture (now smart government offices) was formerly a prison! Quite logical really when you look at the windows - so this area has obviously been updated somewhat!
So - back to the noise of the Fallas. The celebrations can carry on until the early hours or even later - we were told that Mario had been staying out until 5 or 6am, sleeping until about 2pm then getting ready to do it all again - oh to have that energy!!
We were woken up at 2am by booming and flashing fireworks somewhere near us so we know it happens but we didn't feel the need to get up and join them!
So everything is working up to a big frenzy and we are now actually noticing the silences (not that there are many of them) more than the noise!
Thursday 19 March
The big day!
The last (and actually only) time I saw the grand burning of the Fallas was nearly 40 years ago when Paul and I traveled from Cuenca with Yvette in her little car. I remember the sky being bright with fireworks and the heat from the huge burning bonfires of the beautiful figures. And I also remember trying to sleep in the car on a beach somewhere (Sagunto?) afterwards and being most uncomfortable. No money for accommodation but just happy to be there.
Bit different this time...
We went to the Fallas museum - it seemed quite fitting... And this was the ninot which was saved from the year I first saw them - perhaps I saw this all those years ago..
The style of the ninots has changed a lot over the years...
Great expression on this one...
And just as we came out of the museum... another procession...
And at 3pm off they went!... OK at first but the crescendo at the end was quite ear splitting - and we were sitting quite far away! This is what the area looked like afterwards - but straight away people are out with their brushes cleaning the area up. Don't think I'ld like to have been sitting at these cafe tables though...
So - meeting Agustin and Justina again at 9pm ready for the big one (going out at 9pm?!!? - that's nearly my bedtime!!)
And what a lovely surprise - Charlie con gafas (Charlie/Carlos with glasses) was there too as he is now living in Valencia!
When Paul and I lived in Spain he taught a group of five boys who were studying to be teachers - Agustin, Charlie, Javi, Luis and Rafa. They all lived in a flat together and they would come round to our flat for meals (and they would always end up having to spend the night!) - and I would try to cook roast beef and apple pie for them!
So it was lovely to see two of 'my boys' again! (even though there is only a couple of years age difference between us all!) Sadly Rafa died of a brain haemorrhage in his early twenties but Luis still lives locally and Javi lives in Cuenca so we will see him there.
By the way the real name of Charlie con gafas is Jose Maria so I have no idea why we called him that - think that we knew another Carlos (not that that was even his name!!)... And he is always known by the full name (with glasses) rather than just Charlie. And even Agustin and the boys call him it - Charrrrleee...
And so the tour began!...
Fireworks going off everywhere as they started to burn all the childrens' fallas at 9pm...
And this street of lights - so beautiful - and the winner of the best street lighting display. Quite rightly so - it was absolutely amazing!
And of course a huge falla at the end of it!
I had taken my selfie stick - think I need to practice a bit more with it!...
I gave up in the end and Mike used his camera...
This one was to do with the film industry and all around the base and all over it were references to iconic films such as ET, Singing in the rain, Charlie Chaplin and loads more. The one hanging off the clock was The Thirty Nine Steps. (Mike said it was, Agustin thought it was something else). So beautiful!...
Justina asked where this had been placed and she was told eighth. 8TH!! ONLY EIGHTH!! How did that get 8th??!? Think I need to google the other 7 now!...
And here's another gorgeous street of lights...
It was one of the smaller ones and we watched it from the comfort of a bar with a beer and tapas in hand! (How times change!) But even so it was quite sad to see all that beautiful handiwork go up in flames and be destroyed so quickly. I'm sure it would have been worse to watch one of the big ones being set alight.
The huge falla in the Town Hall square (the lion) is the only one which is burned later at 1am. We didn't wait to see this as the queues for the trains and trams would have been horrendous. We had seen these queues earlier in the week when we were trying to get back from the Mascleta!
So we made our way home, saying 'hasta luego' to Charlie, Agustin and Justina, hoping to see all of them plus Javi and Luis and their families too as well as the girls and the grandchildren in Semana Santa in Cuenca.
Again a huge THANK YOU to Agustin and Justina for patiently showing us the sights and waiting while we oohed and aahed and took photos everywhere. We really couldn't have done it without you. We saw amazing things, MUUUUCHAAASS GRRAAACCIAAAASS!! xx
And - bonus - we got back just after 1am and were able to watch all the fireworks from our rooftop terrace! The best of everything!... Woo hoo!!!
Friday 20 March
The streets were strangely quiet but there were lots of people about - back to work for many of them so just a normal Friday after the Fallas holidays. The weather had been very kind for La Nit del Foc (the night of fire) for the burning of all the figures - no rain, although it had been a bit windy in places. It was interesting to see that the direction of the fires had been controlled by huge hosepipes of water. But they needed to be controlled as many of them were very near phone and electricity wires and very close to flats. Once again it would have been 'elf n safety' in the UK...
No noise from any bangers or fireworks as they are not allowed after the Fallas - by law apparently! So you can see why all the kids go mad for a few days!
And it was raining...
So we packed up and went off to a nearby bar in search of thick chocolate and churros before we started our next journey...
A new post as the last one was getting quite long!...
Another trip into the old part to see the figures in sunshine. Nice to see that they eventually had four wheels on the wagon!...
We saw some old favourites and found new ones. Every time we go out we see new things - but one thing we only ever saw once (and that was when it was shut!) was the Tourist Information office. We've looked for it (or them - there are at least two) and never seen them again! And we have given up trying to use a map as it only makes things worse...
This is one of the old markets which is now full of twee little stalls selling expensive twee stuff - but worth a look for the beautiful art deco building...
We decided to stay around to watch the 2pm mascleta - banger/firework display. People were already camping out to claim their spots a couple of hours before. We could see the fireworks all ready to go in a closed off compound in front of the Town Hall next to the lion. 'Elf n safety' in Spain!! It was already difficult to try and get through the throngs and there was a notice up to say which neighbourhood was providing the fireworks for that day...
And yes - we saw Mr Bean again!...
One of the falleras was at her falla/figurine - probably another little ceremony/presentation thing as they seem to have them all the time...
We eventually found our way to the central market - another lovely building...
We decided to eat in the sunshine at a lovely looking stall at the back for the market. Squid for Mike and chorizos for me. All really tasty - but not what I was saying later when I had bad stomach ache - not sure if that was down to a touch of food poisoning or just to greed!!
And at two o'clock on the dot it began!...
What NOISE!!...
Gradually the square and the streets started filling with smoke until we couldn't see the lion in the distance for a while. And then, after a few minutes it all stopped and that was it. Cue for a huge cheer from the crowds...
And then it was a mad but good natured rush while everyone tried to get out of the square and the surrounding streets to get home for their lunch!
We had positioned ourselves so that we could get out of the square and get back to the metro station quite easily.
But so had thousands of others...
We eventually found our way back to the metro (once again it wasn't where we though it was!)
And back to the flat to find that the lift had been mended. Yay!
Tuesday 17 March
Another day of sunshine so we got on the metro to go down to have a look at the port and the beach. After a couple of stops there was a great commotion as loads of people all crowded into the carriage. It was a full marching band and several young men and girls all in full Valencian costume. After some loud chat the band burst into tune and they sang and danced and clapped all the way to their stop - which happened to be ours too.
Amazing! People were just going about their business and getting on and off the tram as it stopped at the stations, squeezing past drums and the heavy skirts of the falleras - just as though it was a normal thing to do!
I said to some of them that it was lovely to see but that it would never happen in England as people would just tutt and complain. Then a Spanish woman told me that she was from Madrid and that it wouldn't happen there either - that it only happened in Valencia!
So - only in Valencia!!
When they got off the tram they all waited on the platform and started singing again - there were more of them on the next train!...
It was funny watching them trying to gather their skirts together to get through the exit barriers!...
But it was even funnier watching them go up the escalator!...
Eventually they all got outside and one lot marched off round one side of the square and the others went off the other way - no doubt to meet up somewhere else later!
A walk down to the port and the beach...
And a few more fallas and ninots...
And then in the evening a chance at last to meet Agustin and Justina - who had been working at school but who now had the rest of the week off for Fallas celebrations (more holidays for Spain...) Lovely to see them both!...
We followed them round the Fallas like happy sheep - it was really nice to be led around by someone who knew where they were going and we saw loads of things that we wouldn't have known about otherwise - and we would never have found this falla which was the overall winner. There were so many people trying to look at it that you just had to slowly shuffle along and try to keep together whilst taking photos!...
We eventually shuffled out way into the Plaza de la Virgen where the huge wooden Virgin was situated and were told why this wooden framed figure is so central to everything. For some this is the most important and most religious part of the Fallas as it is when all the neighbourhoods parade their falleras and falleros, all of them carrying flowers which are offered to the Virgin. As there are so many districts this goes on until the early hours of the morning over two evenings! The flowers are then put into the wooden framework to make a beautiful pattern on her robe and dress...
After supper we wandered back into the main square - just in time to see a wonderful display of lights, smoke and music from the lion. And it was the first time that Agustin and Justina had seen it too so that was nice.
And as we walked away from that we were at the front of the Town Hall where the main fallera (sort of 'head honcho' fallera queen I think) was making her grand exit - not that we could see her but I'm sure that she was there somewhere!..
Wednesday 18 March
Grey skies and drizzle today. We took the train out to Silla in the suburbs of Valencia to meet Agustin and Justina again at their home and had a walk round to look at some of the Fallas in their small town...
Still very impressive and, like everywhere else, a lot of rivalry between the different neighbourhoods.
These are some of Justina's paintings - they are absolutely gorgeous and totally put my little daubings to shame. And Agustin had painted one too...
And lovely jamon of course cut straight from the bone...
And then we saw Mario - dressed in his fallero suit ready to take part in the afternoon procession.
How handsome!...
We went to have a look at Agustins' hobby - a small community television studio for local telly and radio which he helps to run...
They broadcast local news and events from 8pm till midnight every evening.
And then we went off to watch Mario in the procession and meet up with Sergio who had just finished work...
Again all the falleras were carrying flowers which were placed on a display. Another great day - but much more like the damp and drizzly weather we are used to so we felt quite at home with it. Cold for those in the procession though...
The three musketeers looking for an open coffee shop...
We said goodbye to Sergio. It seemed very strange to have to stand on tiptoes to give him a hug instead of stooping down!...
And Mario gave us a lift back to our flat in his new car - very kind of him! He still remembers sitting in Mike's car at the steering wheel and being absolutely thrilled at it being on the 'wrong side' - the first time he had been in a British car.
Both boys remember you well Luisa and Ema and are hoping to come to Cuenca during Semana Santa to meet you and your children!
Anyway - back to the Fallas... Every morning at 8am there is a 'desperta' - sort of a wake up call to make sure that everyone is up and about!! And of course it's more booms, cracks and rattles!
As the big day draws nearer there are more celebrations from each of the neighbourhoods, each of which seems to be holding its own booming mesclata firework display at some point during their festivities. Multiply that by the number of Fallas around the city and you can imagine the constant noise - and that is quite apart from the children and their bangers etc!...
This was happening through the window at the side of me while I was trying to blog...
We also found out that the building on the left in the middle picture (now smart government offices) was formerly a prison! Quite logical really when you look at the windows - so this area has obviously been updated somewhat!
So - back to the noise of the Fallas. The celebrations can carry on until the early hours or even later - we were told that Mario had been staying out until 5 or 6am, sleeping until about 2pm then getting ready to do it all again - oh to have that energy!!
We were woken up at 2am by booming and flashing fireworks somewhere near us so we know it happens but we didn't feel the need to get up and join them!
So everything is working up to a big frenzy and we are now actually noticing the silences (not that there are many of them) more than the noise!
Thursday 19 March
The big day!
The last (and actually only) time I saw the grand burning of the Fallas was nearly 40 years ago when Paul and I traveled from Cuenca with Yvette in her little car. I remember the sky being bright with fireworks and the heat from the huge burning bonfires of the beautiful figures. And I also remember trying to sleep in the car on a beach somewhere (Sagunto?) afterwards and being most uncomfortable. No money for accommodation but just happy to be there.
Bit different this time...
We went to the Fallas museum - it seemed quite fitting... And this was the ninot which was saved from the year I first saw them - perhaps I saw this all those years ago..
The style of the ninots has changed a lot over the years...
And just as we came out of the museum... another procession...
We sat down for lunch near one of the falla figures. The fireworks and firecrackers were all ready to be exploded in a roped off area in the street nearby...
And at 3pm off they went!... OK at first but the crescendo at the end was quite ear splitting - and we were sitting quite far away! This is what the area looked like afterwards - but straight away people are out with their brushes cleaning the area up. Don't think I'ld like to have been sitting at these cafe tables though...
And what a lovely surprise - Charlie con gafas (Charlie/Carlos with glasses) was there too as he is now living in Valencia!
When Paul and I lived in Spain he taught a group of five boys who were studying to be teachers - Agustin, Charlie, Javi, Luis and Rafa. They all lived in a flat together and they would come round to our flat for meals (and they would always end up having to spend the night!) - and I would try to cook roast beef and apple pie for them!
So it was lovely to see two of 'my boys' again! (even though there is only a couple of years age difference between us all!) Sadly Rafa died of a brain haemorrhage in his early twenties but Luis still lives locally and Javi lives in Cuenca so we will see him there.
By the way the real name of Charlie con gafas is Jose Maria so I have no idea why we called him that - think that we knew another Carlos (not that that was even his name!!)... And he is always known by the full name (with glasses) rather than just Charlie. And even Agustin and the boys call him it - Charrrrleee...
And so the tour began!...
Fireworks going off everywhere as they started to burn all the childrens' fallas at 9pm...
And this street of lights - so beautiful - and the winner of the best street lighting display. Quite rightly so - it was absolutely amazing!
And of course a huge falla at the end of it!I had taken my selfie stick - think I need to practice a bit more with it!...
But I do love this picture of Justina and I...
I gave up in the end and Mike used his camera...
And yet another falla but another one that we hadn't seen. Beautiful lights leading up to it and then - WOW!...
This one was to do with the film industry and all around the base and all over it were references to iconic films such as ET, Singing in the rain, Charlie Chaplin and loads more. The one hanging off the clock was The Thirty Nine Steps. (Mike said it was, Agustin thought it was something else). So beautiful!...
Justina asked where this had been placed and she was told eighth. 8TH!! ONLY EIGHTH!! How did that get 8th??!? Think I need to google the other 7 now!...
And here's another gorgeous street of lights...
And then it was midnight and time for the bonfires. This was the one we watched being burned...
The huge falla in the Town Hall square (the lion) is the only one which is burned later at 1am. We didn't wait to see this as the queues for the trains and trams would have been horrendous. We had seen these queues earlier in the week when we were trying to get back from the Mascleta!
So we made our way home, saying 'hasta luego' to Charlie, Agustin and Justina, hoping to see all of them plus Javi and Luis and their families too as well as the girls and the grandchildren in Semana Santa in Cuenca.
Again a huge THANK YOU to Agustin and Justina for patiently showing us the sights and waiting while we oohed and aahed and took photos everywhere. We really couldn't have done it without you. We saw amazing things, MUUUUCHAAASS GRRAAACCIAAAASS!! xx
And - bonus - we got back just after 1am and were able to watch all the fireworks from our rooftop terrace! The best of everything!... Woo hoo!!!
Friday 20 March
The streets were strangely quiet but there were lots of people about - back to work for many of them so just a normal Friday after the Fallas holidays. The weather had been very kind for La Nit del Foc (the night of fire) for the burning of all the figures - no rain, although it had been a bit windy in places. It was interesting to see that the direction of the fires had been controlled by huge hosepipes of water. But they needed to be controlled as many of them were very near phone and electricity wires and very close to flats. Once again it would have been 'elf n safety' in the UK...
No noise from any bangers or fireworks as they are not allowed after the Fallas - by law apparently! So you can see why all the kids go mad for a few days!
And it was raining...
So we packed up and went off to a nearby bar in search of thick chocolate and churros before we started our next journey...
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