Monday 4 November Arrival in Bangkok
Dropped off nice and early at the airport by Luisa on Sunday afternoon. So early that the check in desk wasn't open so we went for a burger while we waited.
Just as well we ate as it then took an hour to get through security. Late afternoon is obviously a popular time to travel!
After two flights and lots of waiting around and shuffling along in huge queues we were in Bangkok!
Beautiful temples all lit up! Didn't stay out long - too tired!
Tuesday 5 November Pre tour in Bangkok
Went out for a wander. It was hot! And humid! After a couple of hours and only three miles of walking we gave up and retreated to the cool of the air con.
Too hot to do anything in the afternoon so we had a snooze and then later got into a tuk-tuk to go and look at the temple Wat Arun which is said to be beautiful in the evening light with all its shiny tiles.
A disco tuk-tuk!
Tuk-tuk drivers can only travel one side of the river so he dropped us as near as he could and we set off to walk the remaining short distance. Further than we thought so it was dark by the time we could see the temple over the water in the distance. Very pretty though!
Then a wander back through some very dark streets and past more temples.
Some interesting street food being cooked but we sat down inside - in air con.
Then an interesting butterfly cocktail and bed.
Wednesday 6 November Bangkok
Up early, breakfasted and out by 9am. The plan was to get the ferry across the river to look round Way Arun temple. So we organised another tuk-tuk from the hotel. The driver asked if we were doing a river cruise. No, we said, we just want the passenger ferry.
So he dropped us at the cruise ferry dock and sped off!
A large man approached us with his clipboard and after several attempts at trying to get us on the cruise he eventually told us that the foot ferry was 'that way' vaguely waving his arm in the direction further along the river.
So we set off back down the street and passed another young couple in a tuk-tuk being talked at by someone else. After we'd walked by I suddenly felt a bit uneasy and turned back to speak to them - only to find that my way was immediately blocked by the man talking to them and another one who came from nearby. I tried to say (well shout!) that if they only wanted the passenger ferry then this was an hour long cruise. Both men started trying to usher me away and say it was nothing to do with me.
Then Mr Clipboard arrived and asked what I was doing hassling his customers. I said that they were friends and tried to keep talking to them but the men kept trying to intimidate me to move back towards Mike who was keeping an eye on the situation from a few paces away. Mr Clipboard argued with me, eventually getting right in my face and shouting 'f***ing tourists'. Red rag to a bull! I shouted back that it was the 'f***ing tourists' keeping him in business!
So we backed off. And were joined seconds later by the young couple who had taken the distraction as an opportunity to get out of the tuk-tuk.
Turned out they were Polish and hadn't wanted a cruise either - but they were so shaken that they decided to walk to the Grand Palace instead. We caught the ferry - 4 bahts - about 10p. My good deed for the day!
And Mr Clipboard was Chinese not Thai - seems that they have their fingers in many, many pies in Thailand!
Our visit to Wat Arun was well worth all the hassle!
Absolutely stunning - but so hot and humid again!
We decided to pop into the Royal Navy Wives Club (not as posh as it sounds!) for a drink and after a while another couple came in and sat a few tables away from us. The girl looked at me and I looked at her and we both half smiled in recognition. It was the couple from earlier!
Quite a coincidence with so many people milling around!
So off we went to the Royal Palace.
As we'd wandered round earlier Mike had seen some light cotton trousers that he wanted and I had bought a long trouser/skirt thing.
Mike had ripped his old trousers so he had already changed into his new ones. As we walked through the gates the policeman pointed to my cut off pants (well below my knees - chosen to comply with the strict religious dress code of covering shoulders and knees) and said I couldn't go in as they were too short. Luckily I had my new ones!
Again some absolutely stunning buildings
Part of the ticket was for a Thai masked dance show so we boarded the bus and set off to see it. It was in an air conditioned theatre so we were very happy.
It was a play - with subtitles on a scrolling board above the curtain - and they had a small group of musicians sitting in the side of the stage to accompany them.
The theatre was on the route towards our hotel so we took a slow amble back - taking in another temple complex on the way.
And we had another look at the Giant Swing which we had dismissed earlier as a piece of modern frippery. Turns out it was used as part of ceremonial processions in the 17th century.
The way back was much shorter than yesterday as we strolled through tiny back streets near the canal and managed to come out right at our hotel door feeling very pleased with ourselves!
Shower time again!
At 6pm we went for our tour group meeting. There are only 10 of us on this trip and they seem like a nice bunch.
We all went out together for a group meal - nice start to the tour!
Back for yet another shower!!
Thursday 7 November Bangkok
We started with a boat tour on the Chao Phraya river and the nearby canals. Fascinating to see all the stilted houses.
We bought bread from monks at a canal side temple - to throw into the water for the frenzied fish. They are very well fed!
Then it was off to the Wat Pho temple to see the famous reclining Buddha - he has fab toes!
Then off to look round more stupas and temples.
We took tuk-tuks back to the hotel and everyone went off to do their own thing.
Mike and I went to look at the Golden Mountain mound and temple complex nearby - probably not the wisest choice in the heat but well worth the effort.
Get well wishes for sister Carol.
We met back at the hotel (another shower!) and made our way to the train station ready for our overnight train.
... And we took out first proper group photo!
Then onto the train. We had allocated seats so we all stowed our luggage and settled down. At 6:05 the Thai national anthem started to play and at exactly 6:10 the train set off. Exactly on time!
We could order food on the train so we did that. An interesting mixture of slightly spiced or (for me!) unbearably hot!
Ordering the food was interesting. Firstly a young lady came along with a book (bit like a takeaway menu) and hung around until we had decided what we wanted. She then went off with our order.
A while later someone came back with our food.
Then much later someone else came back to take our payments.
At around 8pm an attendant arrived to put down and make the beds - you weren't allowed to do it for yourself.
Then it was time for me to climb up onto the top bunk.
In the morning the whole process was reversed as the attendant stripped the bed and folded them back to seats.
Friday 8 November. Chiang Mai
At 7:15 am precisely we arrived at Chiang Mai station and jumped in the waiting red taxi trucks for the journey our hotel.
We were able to get into our rooms and have a quick shower before meeting for a quick orientation and then breakfast.
Walk around the city and a leisurely afternoon. Got a tuk-tuk back to the hotel as it was so hot. Negotiated hard on the price with the (Chinese again!) man in charge of the sort of tuk-tuk rank then gave the Thai lady who drove us a tip so that she could keep it herself.
Met up with the group in the evening for a trip up in the mountains to the Doi Suthep temple complex. A long and winding road (cue for a song?!) and big traffic jams out of the city meant that we didn't get there until dark. As we got out of the minivan Ning (our leader) said 'now we take the cable car to the top'. Waargghh... Just enough time for me to panic before we shuffled through the glass doors into a crowded cabin. As I prepared for meltdown Mike said 'its a funicular'. Huge relief. I then spent the next few minutes apologising to the near strangers in our group for swearing whilst being told to 'breathe deeply' by Helen. Luckily I'd clutched hold of one of our party rather than a complete stranger lol.
So, so worth the few minutes of panic!
The Buddhist monks were chanting and the air was filled with incense. And everything was so gob smackingly beautiful.
Then it was back down the winding road to visit to the night markets for a wander and try some street food.
Chicken pad Thai for me - all freshly cooked as you waited. Things on skewers for Mike.
The lady had quite a queue so several of us watched the pad thai being freshly made each time. Well worth the wait,
Lots of fun with the group trying all the different foods! Dan wandered round all the stalls and came back with loads of different things. In fact he did this through the whole of the trip - very funny!
Saturday 9 November Chiang Mai
Happy big birthday Luisa - hope that you have a great day!!
Some group members were going out on various trips - visiting elephant sanctuaries or zip wires. We waved them off and went for a leisurely walk.
Today we walked the wrong way (again!) and found the river.
Went back to the hotel and Mike had a rest whilst I wandered off round the corner to have a massage.
The massage was lovely and I was feeling relaxed and lightly oiled! So off we went out again - deciding to go back first of all to look at the nearby river at dusk.
The light was lovely and as we walked through the temple complex near the river we could hear the monks chanting.
Quite magical.
A further walk before searching for food!
Dancing and entertainment at the street markets.
Then back to the street food and more Pad Thai. Delicious!
Sunday 10 November Chiang Khong
Remembrance Sunday in the UK.
Two of our group are father and son. Dan the dad and Max his 17 year old son. One of Dan's daughters is in the army, another in the air force and Max will be joining the navy soon.
Dan asked if we could do a minute's silence today at 11am. As we were travelling we stopped our two minibuses at the side of the road and all got out to pay our respects. We did our minute in silence and Dan said something appropriate at the end and we climbed back into the buses and set off on our way.
Not the right day or the right time but it was just right for us.
At our lunch stop we had to load money into payment cards then pay for our food with that. At the end of the meal we could reclaim what we hadn't spent. Seemed a bit long winded but it worked!
And the signs in the toilets on our 'comfort break' gave us a good laugh too.
We travelled on to the White Temple. A modern Buddhist temple built on the site of an old one. The work was given to a local man who had done some other work nationally (can't remember the details and haven't googled it yet!) and he was given free reign. The result is an AMAZING mix of religious, symbolic, transcendental, satirical, kitsch GENIUS!!
The pictures speak for themselves.
Sort of a manic Gaudi with added curlicues!! I could have spent the whole day there! One of my favourite places on the whole tour - in fact possibly my favourite.
We weren't allowed to take pictures in the temple but that was equally bizarre with loads of modern and ancient symbolism intermingled. George Bush, Bin Laden, Hello Kitty, Spiderman and a Minion amongst many others. Very weird but totally fascinating!
We got to our accommodation late afternoon. This is the view from our room looking out at the Mekong River which we are going to sail down tomorrow.
Ning found out that today was the festival of light for the town. We went for a short walk along the river bank before our evening meal and watched as they set up for the festival.
Then we all took our floral, candle and incense offerings down to light at the riverside before watching them float away carrying our happy wishes and unhappy woes with them. More wishes for Carol.
Lots of dancing, lighting fireworks and releasing little paper lanterns over the river. No elf n safety measures here!!
continued in part 2..
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