Sunday 17 August 2014

Aug 14: Edinburgh, Glasgow then Luing!...

Wed 15 August

We decided to add a couple of days to the holiday we had booked on Luing - and spend it in Edinburgh which was a) on the way and b) hosting the Edinburgh Fringe Festival...

Our holiday started when we got to Tebay services for our breakfast... and we stopped at the Rosslyn chapel to eat our lunch...



As it was a last minute decision accommodation was at a premium but we managed to book a couple of days in a hotel called Snoozebox - the name should have given us a clue...



It was literally a box!  Apparently it's a movable hotel which travels round from venue to venue and it's off to Gleneagles next.

The rooms were tiny and looked like shipping containers (but smaller!) but they had everything that was needed and as you were only sleeping in them they were fine. 

We booked in to the reception which was a bigger box like a marquee tent.  No breakfasts here but we could get coffee whenever we wanted - and a glass of prosecco! That certainly softened the blow of the tiny room!


Not sure if we should have been having a glass every time we came back but we did - and very nice it was too...

So we went of to see Harvey, Garvey and the Kane at the Udderbelly venue.  Very funny!  All signs and venues were cow and dairy related...

We wandered round and looked at all the street stuff and then went to see if we could get tickets for the Tattoo.  We were advised to come back early in the morning for returns.  

So - back to our little sleep box, glass of prosecco and bed.


Thurs 14 August

We were up early and queuing by 9.30 am as advised but still didn't get tickets so we went off the look for breakfast - a full Scottish, very nice!

So we decided to walk up to Carton Hill as the weather was nice - the weather forecast hadn't been very promising but it was really warm and the sun came out.

We then walked back up to the castle for a wander round - the nearest we would get to the Tattoo!


There was lots going on around the streets but as the sun was still shining we stopped in a busy square for a drink outside a bar.

A stand up comedian was doing a routine there so we decided to watch him.  He was ok - in a small room with an audience of about 15 so quite intimate!

It turned out that our timing was immaculate as the rain started - and heavily!  But by the tine we went back out it had nearly stopped. 

So back to the box for a rest and a palliative prosecco and then out again later.  More wandering and live music (and a dubious pulled pork sandwich for Mike) and then back for a further prosecco and then bed.

Friday 15 August

We decided to have breakfast in Glasgow - at the Willow Tearooms on Sauchiehall Street.  Nice!!



So from Glasgow we went up to Oban to have a big shop at Tesco before going for the ferry.  There is a small shop on the island but the prices are quite high so it is for essentials and emergencies only!










We'd forgotten that the ferryman stops for his tea break so we had to wait for over an hour to get the 7.30 ferry.  We couldn't get in touch with anyone as there was no signal so after the (three minute long!) crossing we went straight to the cottage.



Julia, the owner's mum, showed us around so we quickly unpacked and had a look at the view outside...


So back in the car and off to the other end of the island to Cullipool.  We had to stop to take photos of the views...


It was lovely to see everyone.  

They had been out fishing in the boat just before we had arrived and they proudly came back with their catch - 167 mackerel!  

They had wandered into a shoal of them and had made the most of it! 

Several neighbours called round to take a couple of fish - and stayed for a drink and a chat - so we eventually left Val and George's house at about 2am and had a careful drive back!

Alex spent ages gutting and cleaning the fish - and George started smoking some of them.
So we had plain smoked, peppered and George's special chillied mackerel - all delicious!  And not forgetting Alex's lovely mackerel pate - yum!

Saturday 16 August

We had a wander round the village and a walk down to the little pier.  Beautiful scenery wherever you look...







We spent the day with the family - Joe decided that the best place to be was under his mum's dress!...



There was a ceilidh in the evening in the village hall.  The men stayed at home with their beer and cider and the women walked round the corner to the hall.  Lots of country dancing, singing and playing the spoons - all very entertaining.  Then it was time for sandwiches and a cup of tea - and the raffle!  Alex had even managed to sneak some of the mackerel in as prizes so we were hoping that we didn't win it back!!

I did win a scarf and gloves though - very useful in this changeable weather!  And we won some cakes and sandwiches too - as did most people as they had a lot left!...

So back to their house, another drink with half the village crammed in there (or so it seemed!) then another late night drive home.  Great day!

Sunday 17 August

Our anniversary and we had invited everyone round to see the cottage and for a buffet.  It was a lovely day with about 20 people  - lots of anniversary good wishes and loads of beautiful cards showing views of the village - and even one of where we are staying!



Again a lovely day.  

We'd found a little booklet of walks in the cottage so had decided to do one of the shorter ones in the morning before everyone arrives. 

 It went up past the graveyard in a short circular tour - lots of interesting information there about a shipwreck.




But we still have the mystery of the knives to clear up...  We borrowed 6 knives and forks as we didn't have enough for everyone.  After clearing up and washing up we could only find 4 of the knives although all of the forks were there - and they were quite distinctive with bone handles and a Mackintosh design on them so they hadn't been mixed up with the cottage cutlery.

We thought that Alex may have taken them back with her other plates etc but she hadn't.  So we emptied the dustbin and searched through that.  We went through all the kitchen and looked everywhere - even the most unlikely places - but we still couldn't find them.  They've still not turned up so we've still got the mystery of 'Knifegate' here in Toberonochy...

But after tearing the place apart looking for cutlery we had a nice evening doing nothing  but a bit of computer and telly (Mike) and reading and painting (me) - very relaxing.

Monday 18 August

The weather has been quite changeable on and off and today the forecast was good for the morning so we decided to go on another of the walks from the little booklet in the cottage.

It went up to the trig point at this end of the island.




We deviated from the walk and came back along the coast - well we tried to but were defeated by an electric fence so we shinned over a gate!

Well it was more like clambered and flung ourselves over the gate as there were no footholds - but we decided to go back to the path!...

Then a lazy afternoon eating all the food that was left from yesterday and a trip later down the road to Blackmill Bay - but it was very cold and blowy then so we didn't stay long!...
























Tuesday 19 August

A good forecast today so we decided to do another walk which would eventually take us to Cullipool at the top end of the island.  As the island is only 6 miles long and 1.5 miles wide none of the walks are too serious! Plus our village is about half way down it so we weren't even going to walk the whole length...

As we set off Pete, Alex and the boys were coming down to Toberonochy, the village we are staying in, to see if we wanted to go out in the boat with everyone as the weather was so nice and the sea quite calm.

So a change of plan, back for the wellies and waterproofs and off we went on an island adventure!...


George and Briony fetched the boat in and Joe was wellied, suited and life jacketed up ready to go...
The advance picnic party prepared to board...




Belnahua is one of the slate islands where slate was quarried by the men who lived with their families in the little (now derelict) houses which are still scattered across the island - it's a fascinating history.

We went past the tiny island lighthouse Fladda which is no longer used.  It's very pretty.


The first boat load arrived at the island more or less dry after a calm crossing.  George went across for the second lot who were not quite so lucky!...












Brothers - George and Hughie...



How much water can come out of one welly?!...



Phantom photobomber...

Posers - grandad and grand daughter...








The church in the rock cave - which was consecrated for the islanders who had no proper church.




Mike phoning a friend... - or checking his football results!  A better signal here than on Luing!







 



The first group set off back... 

A wet ride for them they told us later!  It took George ages to get back out to us as the sea was a bit choppy and it seemed to us that the front was really rearing up as there was so little weight in the boat.

A very wet ride back - we were all soaked but loved it - sun on the water, ice cold waves, the seal on the rock - brilliant!





















While we had been out Alex had cooked a delicious turkey dinner - and baked a huge cake!  So we ate that and then settled back to watch Ian start a 1000 piece jigsaw - with the promise of £10 from his gran if he finished it before midnight!




No one was allowed to help him but he did it - with time to spare so his gran had to pay up!...



Wednesday 20 August

A fairly lazy day today - we went into Oban and stopped at several places to ask about accommodation so that we could stay on for a few more days.







Lunch: well what can you say about battered haggis and deep fried mars bars...

Haggis - delicious!

Mars bar - bit strange...

But you have to try these things!

It rained in the evening but we had a short walk around the little harbour.



Julia gave us these lovely flowers for our anniversary - she said that she had knocked on several occasions but that we were always out!  Really thoughtful.

Thursday 21 August

The weather forecast was better for the afternoon so we had another lazy morning.  It was quite sunny so I wandered down the lane to pick a few blackberries.  Julia said that we could pick some of the plums from the garden so I made a plum and blackberry upside down cake for her - and a large one for the family with pineapple and cherries at one end and plums and blackberries at the other.

We then packed a picnic and set off on our walk from Toberonochy past the graveyard to Ardnimar Bay.  We found the grave of the Latvian sailor with the photo.  A very peaceful graveyard to be buried in - and a beautiful view!





 This was a more modern grave in the next field on its own - not sure why and forgot to ask!

This was a beautiful walk - if a little muddy at times!  But once again we were lucky with the weather and the sun shone...

This was somewhere up a hill on the walk looking back at out little cottage in Toberonochy - it's to the left of the two tall trees on the shore - behind the small tree with the two houses to the left.

And this is the very beautiful tiny Lochan Iliter which used to supply the water for Toberonochy.

It was covered in water lilies - I'd love to see that when the lilies are out! Lots of pictures of it as it was so  GAWGEOUS!...
















This might be a suitable place to add some cows!...









We walked back along the road past the church, the old water mill, the cenotaph and the Millennium stone...



Then a quick nip down in the car back to Blackmill Bay - love that place!...










And back to our cosy cottage...





Friday 22 August

Time to say goodbye to our little cottage - these are some of the views from the garden at various times of day or night throughout the week...









... and we moved into our new digs - a caravan at Cuan Sound - still on the island just near to the ferry.

With a view just as pretty...



We soon had our first visitors...









A quick jump on the trampoline before we were told it was private property!...



Then off to throw some stones in the water...






Then a short evening walk from our caravan around the point to Maryport Bay to watch the sun set...
















Then home for ... mackerel!...





Saturday 23 August

Over to Easdale to have a look around and go to the British Legion charity event.  The 'YES' lobbyists for the Scottish referendum get everywhere - they had put two huge round metal banner type things into the holes on the side of the bridge - under cover of darkness.  Not pretty!






















Then a quick (late!) visit to the Flower Show in Toberonochy - where we managed to miss Briony winning her prizes - and missed most of the cake auction at the end...



Then a quick trip to Blackmill Bay - and Pete turned up a few minutes later with the kids...












A stop at the spring on the way back...



And another stop to admire the views - and the rain clouds and the rainbow in the distance...




And then back to watch the rain over the far hills and the rainbows from the comfort of the caravan with a glass of wine in hand...
















Sunday 24 August





















Another lovely sunny day so we had breakfast outside looking out across the bay for seals...

Our walk today was to the trig point at the top of the island  and then down to the village of Cullipool below.  Our plan was to call in to say hello to the relatives and then continue our walk back along the coast - a bit of a scramble in places but quite doable.






















From the vantage point of the trig point we could look down to the village - Val and George's cottage is in the middle so not quite visible - but we did see Pete walk past with the boys - not that he saw us up there...

















When we gave up on trying to work out which island was where we headed down to Cullipool.  By our usual circuitous route which again bore no resemblance to the map.  We keep going off course and have decided that we haven't done a 'proper' walk unless it involves a bog and an electric fence!



















As it was the family's last full day they wanted to put the boats and all the equipment away.  But before they did that they said that they'd take their neighbour Jacqueline out in the boat to have a look at the renovations which had been done to the house on Belnahua.

As Jaqcui has limited mobility we hung around to try and help a bit with the boat...










Joe did a bit of fishing while he waited...



























Jacqui looked as though she had thoroughly enjoyed her little trip and was soon back on her motorised trike to go home...







George and Val decided to take Briony out for one last short fishing trip - so Mike and I jumped in too.  The sea was beautifully calm and the sun was shining...








Briony pulled in fish after fish - too fast to take pictures at times!  All I managed was to catch the hook in my trousers...

But it was soon time to go back and start packing everything away - and for the family to go back to the cottage to help Alex who had been left literally holding the baby whilst preparing a full roast dinner for everyone!

So we didn't manage the rest of our walk as Pete dropped us off at the caravan so we could have a quick shower before returning for the lovely meal which Alex had been so busy preparing!


And what a feast!  Beautiful potted shrimps served in tiny tea cups (very posh - and very tasty!) followed by a full roast dinner.

George obligingly fell asleep and the wine waitress for the evening was Briony...



























Joe even helped by cutting the (cookie monster? pac man?) cake!  And it was nice to see Pam and Sandy again and have a good chat...


Monday 25 August

Another day of glorious sunshine.  We popped down to Cullipool to say goodbye to everyone as they got ready to go home then left them to finish their packing - and set off to enjoy our last day on the island.  Our walk today was a circular from the Millennium seat to the centre of the island then down the spine and back along the road.






















It was a lovely day for wandering and we had a picnic with us so we just took our time - and wandered, picked a few early blackberries, took some photos - and wandered a bit more!  The roads are so quiet that the kids had drawn a hopscotch grid to play on!



Someone had cut down a huge tree and then carved the top to make a seat - so I had to sit on it.  We passed the watermill again and found little caves in the rocks...


The cows were very nosy and very friendly - when we sat down to eat our picnic two of them wandered across and stood in front of us - almost as if they were begging for our crisps - a bit off putting really!...

We stood on the road watching three eagles soaring above us and occasionally settling in a far off tree.  Two of them eventually flew off somewhere and Mike stood watching the third one while I walked on a bit.















Then I saw a movement ahead of me to the right of the cattle grid just behind the metal fencing.

I thought it was a hare as we had seen several of them.  But then I realised that it wasn't a hare but the two eagles!!

They were fighting on the ground in front of me!

I called Mike and managed to take one picture (the one where the eagle seems to be saying 'wot you looking at?') as he rushed up the road behind me.

Mike took a picture as he came up to me (the pic of me taking a pic!) and we watched them for a few seconds more before they saw us and took flight.

Absolutely incredible to see - perhaps they were fighting over territory or a female - but one definitely had the other pinned down with its claws!

As Mike's camera is far superior to my little one he was able to zoom in and see the detail of one eagle duffing up the other!...

Quite a moment!

So - on we walked, looking for the little fairy knoll which we knew was around there somewhere!

We had been told about the fairies and had looked out for them on our late night drives back to Toberonochy but we hadn't seen any - only several spooked hares who sat in the glare of the car headlights...

We eventually found the little grassy knoll at the side of a tiny stream.  

Our little book of walks said that you had to leave them a length of cotton so after much examination of our clothes Mike managed to pull a thread from his tee shirt and I found a loose bit on the hem of my trousers (will probably have to sew them now!) so we left them on top of the grassy mound and walked on...

So back to the caravan for tea - mackerel!  And our last evening of seal spotting...
























And our last evening of looking at the views - and what views we had - here are some of them at various times of the day - and night!...




























Some of these shots have the reflection of the camera in them as most of them were taken through the (dirty!) window.  Perhaps we shouldn't have been so lazy and should have stepped literally outside to the front of the caravan to take them!... One or two of the night time ones also have a little green light in them - reflection from the microwave button!

But here is some more green light - very faint but definitely not the microwave button (apart from the last one at the bottom) - and we were pointing north so perhaps we have caught some faint aurora here?!...


















The skies were certainly clear enough!


Tuesday 26 August

So - time to go home and leave all the beautiful sunshine and scenery behind.  Of course there is beautiful scenery at home too but it sounds as though they have been a bit short on the sunshine while we have been enjoying it up here in Scotland!



A last look at the view and we handed in the key.  Then round the corner to the ferry - where we waited and watched several seals who had come to say goodbye!
















So it was goodbye for now Luing (and the little seal bobbing around in the distance!) - but we will be back!

Next stop - Tesco!  For fuel and picnic...




















As the weather was once again so lovely we decided just to meander back home, stopping when we felt like it.  So the first stop was the Bridge over the Atlantic - this time without the referendum signs which had been removed!


We then stopped for our picnic at     We actually hadn't gone any distance at all but I was hungry!...




















Next stop Loch Etive...


















Loch Awe...





















Inverary and Loch Fyne...

















Loch Long...

Loch Lomond...

A wonderful holiday with lovely people, beautiful scenery and some glorious weather.  Thank you to all the family who made it so special - we will be back!...