Friday 12 October 2018

Oct 18: Mexico (11 - 24)

Thursday 11 October


Off on a Mexican adventure! Thank you Siobhan for our sugar skull t shirts - they are brill...


Short flight from Manchester to Amsterdam - seemed to spend more time than the flight in taxiing towards the airport - crossing over a busy motorway in the process - that was a first!

Then a 10 hour flight to Mexico city. Big plane - like a double decker!



Nice easy pick up from the airport and about an hour to travel not very far through huge amounts of honking, lane weaving traffic to our hotel. Early night after travelling for nearly 24 hours.

Friday 12 October

View from our room...




Breakfast - refried beans and chilli tortillas...




Went for a short wander with no map and only a vague idea of direction - 8 miles later...

















So interesting and so much going on! 

Saw a man putting on full sugar skull makeup in his shop doorway and stopped to tell him it looked great. He didn't want a photo though - probably vanity as he hadn't finished it! I'm sure there will be lots more photo opportunities over the next couple of weeks as the whole city seems to be gearing up for Halloween and Day of the Dead.

We will be visiting the old town for an orientation walk on Sunday when we start our tour so we didn't bother too much about identifying places - and we actually did quite well to even get to the historical centre without a map!



Mexico City seems to be a cross between Spain and India with loads of hustle, bustle and noise from the traffic and street markets, stalls and street food everywhere. Just fabulous!

Saw our hotel from the outside on the way back - we're on the 17th floor and have a balcony but I won't go out on it - and Mike says the rail is a bit wobbly so neither will he now! 



We went to a small eatery near the hotel for lunch . Cheap as chips and basic but very tasty with lovely fresh flour tortillas. We had a tiny dessert which was one Spanish biscuit - bit like a rich tea - soaked in what seemed like condensed milk tipped with fresh lime zest. So simple but absolutely delicious!



Interesting evening at a bar nearby - pizza cones, Day of the Dead beer and tequila, mezcal and vodka shots with ice cream. 







Not over keen on the mezcal and tequila shots but quite liked vodka flavoured ice cream!  And the pizza cone was just delish.




Saturday 13 October

Fabulous views from the 21st floor rooftop swimming pool area. Or for me, from the doorway...






I didn't linger long - then I spotted this in the lift...



This is the view looking up to our room on the 17th floor...



... at the very top are linear balconies with spaces between. That's us. And this is our view between the spaces and why we don't go out there. I'm sure they're perfectly safe but not for me thanks.




Today we went for another wander but took the metro to get to Zocalo in the historic centre - very easy to use and saved a long walk. It was very busy on the metro and very busy when we got off. Lots of people in costume doing little rituals with twigs and smoke to get rid of bad auras - and lots of queues to get it done!





We just wandered round all the never ending markets taking in the sights and sounds.  When we got fed up we jumped on the metro to return to the hotel.







Crossing roads can be tricky with 5 lanes of traffic and no crossing point - so we just diced with death and followed the locals. 



So many police and security  men around all over the place - and all of them seem to be armed, some of them with huge weapons. But it doesn't feel unsafe to walk around day or night.



Then it was time to meet our tour group. 8 of us and our lovely leader Pili. We all went out for a meal and a bit of bonding - Phil from Australia but with a strong Yorkshire accent, Suzie from Canada, Tristan (Stan) from Australia, Sue from Australia and Wayne and Wichan (Num) a married couple from Orlando. A select little group - think we'll all get on just fine!

Sunday 14 October

Orientation walk around Zocalo - the historical area.











The murals by Diego Rivera at the National Palace were amazing...















Then a trip to the Frida Khalo museum. 











We wandered into a restaurant with a mariachi band in the evening and attempted to eat a mountain of food! Great band but a bit disconcerting to be serenaded by a man in a full face mask!!








Monday 15 October

A visit to the pyramids at Teotihuacan.











Stan, Suzie and I climbed the Pyramid of the Sun...








Lots of huge sugar skulls around the city.








Tuesday 16 October

Time to move on - hopefully to a lower hotel floor next time. The 17th was a bit high for me but the views were amazing - once I'd seen them by sticking my camera out through the door!







Three hour drive to Querétero - beautiful! A lovely hotel in a former nunnery. And a room just one floor up!






Great walk round the town.

















We went out for street food in the evening.









Wednesday 17 October

Firstly a trip to Bernal to see the monolithic rock.






More lovely churches.





A visit to a wool and fabrics business.






Eating gorditas for a late breakfast.






 The a wine tour and tasting.



And then a visit to an organic cheese and milk farm. Worth it for the lovely lunch all made with local products - and paired with lovely wines.






The Lady of Guadalupe was returning to one of the churches in the evening so there was much celebrating. 











Then later there were fireworks which we could see from our balcony.

We thought they'd go on late into the night but they didn't - we'd had more noise the previous night from nocturnal roadworks which were filling in a hole directly outside our window!!


Thursday 18 October 

A detour to look at the aquaduct.







Onwards to San Michel de Allende and a night in a former nunnery.











Trying the local beer.






Mexican hot chocolate - with cinnamon - yum! Churros are the same as in Spain.



More beautiful churches.












A lovely walk around town and to the craft market.





Lovely buffet meal in the evening.





The church was very fairytale with the lights.







A mariachi band was playing in the square.



Friday 19 October

Last walk round San Miguel de Allende.






The street signs were beautiful.






More travelling with a stop at Dolores Higaldo to look at the church where Higaldo first raised the flag for independence.







Then we arrived at Guanajuato - an amazing place! We were staying slightly out of town here as atm it is hosting the annual Cervantino festival. 

This started in the mid 20th century as a place which hosted short plays by Don Cervantes. It is now an international festival which is very famous. 


The whole place was so picturesque but so busy!!
















Mad wiring!





We decided to take Ubers back to the hotel - Wayne and Pili booked them and it turned into an Uberoff as they both watched their cars crawling round the busy roads. 




Wayne won!!




Saturday 20 October

First stop was the church for the silver mines. 



Then a trip to a silver mine.








I didn't want to go down so I stayed outside watching the children practice their drums to be ready for their performance as part of the Cervantino on Tuesday. Then I went for a short walk.








Next stop was the mummy museum. Quite strange. Actual mummies taken from the local cemetery - some as recent as the 1950s. 





These were bodies placed in a local crypt where the conditions were ideal to mummify the corpses (not deliberately!). After 5 years if the perpetuity fees had not been paid they were removed and if no family came to claim them they were eventually put in a museum

Off to the museum to look at more wonderful murals.






Time for lunch.



Then (after finding Mike and Num!!) we separated for a wander.








Then a taxi back out to the hotel on the outskirts of the city and a quiet night in.

Sunday 21 October

Off to Guadalajara with a stop at Tlaquepaque. Loads of different groups dancing as part of the festival. All in bright costumes and all beating drums very loudly!







The rooms weren't ready when we got to the hotel so we went out for a meal 



We eventually got into our rooms and arranged to meet up with Martha's sister Maria José and her mum Martha. 



They took us out to Zapolan where there were more dancers.





Monday 22 October

A short walk out to the cathedral then we were picked up by Patty and her mum Martha. A lovely drive out to Tocala then a mooch round the shops. 




Lovely meal in a nearby restaurant then a bit more sightseeing.




Tuesday 23 October

Onwards to Patzcuaro - where it rained a bit - but we were right at the edge of a hurricane at the time. We still went out though.



We decided to leave the boat trip out to the island until the next morning - hoping that the weather would be better.

Then we all gathered for a meal together - and were very happy because we found wine for the first time!




Wednesday 24 October

... And the weather was bright and sunny - perfect for a boat trip!






Then we went to visit the Tzintzuntzan stone ruins en route to Morelia. More beautiful scenery - a great place to start a settlement - even though it only lasted a few hundred years.






We arrived in Morelia quite late but some of us went out for a walk round after our meal.





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